Understanding Humminbird Electronics

Other than your boat and motor the most important piece of equipment is your Depth finder and GPS. Way back when, I thought all Depth finders were created equal well this is partially true. Depth finders will give you the depth and the signal for a fish, well that is how you interpret what or how you read your electronics.

I was fishing next to another boat and they were telling me the bottom was loaded with walleye (fish), I was not marking a fish (I’m using the Humminbird 987c SI (side imager) and the Matrix 97 on my bow mount electric motor). Neither one of my depth finders showed any fish; I asked them if they were getting any bites? The answer was no. That suggested to me they were not reading or interpreting their electron incorrectly. I have one rule about my Humminbird electronics, never second guess your electronics, if you are not marking fish and not catching fish then chances are there are very few fish in the area. But on the other hand if you are catching a fish here and there than that would tell me the fish are spooked and just maybe moving out of the path of your boat. 




Let’s talk about the color strengths:

Green and yellow: in most situations they work together, spotting larger fish.

Blue: the weakest signal, small fish and small schools of baitfish.

The picture to the immediate right is in zoom mode: Notice the thin red line then green yellow and red. Humminbird has a feature called the white line. What this white line does it lifts the bottom up 2 inches and help the fisherman interpret what they are seeing. This is great for fish that are hugging tight to the bottom.

On the above and below picture notice the fish. See the yellow spot in the middle of the fish. I can tell you that is a walleye. That center spot is the air bladder. You are probably wondering why I make such a bold statement. Well here is the reasoning; a walleye has lesser mass of meat on its back compared to a carp, which is denser. Also it is years of practice using Humminbird’s sonar and understanding what I am seeing on the screen. Practice, Practice…

A hint: If you have an underwater camera, use it to help interpret what you are seeing.

The photo to the immediate left shows the duel beam technology.

The 200 Hz is a 20-degree and cover 1/3 of your depth. Simple math is to divide the depth by 3 and this gives you the size of the area you are looking at. This type of coverage gives you a more pinpoint view of where the fish are.

The 50 Hz is a 60-degree and coverage is equal to your depth. 85 ft deep = 85 diameter coverage. 




You probably wonder why use the duel beam function. Here is a simple example: You are fishing in 14 ft of water. The left screen is covering 14 ft diameter and you are seeing fish, however on the right side you see no fish, this is because you are only seeing approximately 5 ft circle (coverage). We’ll take this example a little further. You are traveling back and forth and still marking some fish on the left and maybe 1 or no fish on the right side of the screen. How do we interpret what we are seeing??? The fish are moving (not very far or fast). But (there is always a but), however, if you marked many fish then less fish and again no fish, this should tell you that the fish are spooked. 
 

What’s out to the side of the boat?

Side imaging is picture like quality; it has the ability to view 240 ft. both sides of the boat. This unit is set to view 110 ft both sides of the boat.

The little white specks are fish and if you notice the dark spots, well that is the shadow of the suspended fish. 

Freeze Frame with the ability to Mark Structure on Side Imaging
Pressing any arrow on the 4 way cursor control instantly stops the Side Imaging graphic display to allow a closer inspection of submerged structure, baitfish, and underwater contours. Movable cursor feature allows you to drop a waypoint or mark on the structure or school of fish. Now you just switch screens to GPS mode and you can know fish directly over the top of the structure.

Here is one feature I don’t know how I lived without. The shading capability of the Humminbird is second to none. This map is set on auto, and what that did is shade (torques) to 11 ft. and then it shaded to 17 ft. However you can change your shading to what ever you prefer.

Examples of how to use the shaded depth are listed below.
1: If you want to pull crankbaits at 11 ft well you just zoom in on your GPS and follow the contour line.

2: Know lets look at the 17 ft shaded area. If this was not shaded and to the naked eye it would be very difficult to spot the small islands that are at both the 11 and 17 ft. depth. Just imagine using this GPS in you vehicle while you are ice fishing. You could drive up to any underwater island or hump and never have to second-guess where it is because you will always find it.

3: Can you know imagine finding the deeper holes, which are back in the bays or in the trees at Devils Lake? When I’m on DL is set my magic depth at 15 ft. you would be very surprised at all the ravines and deeper holes that hide in the trees. When I’m on Lake Sakakawea I set the depth at 17 when I’m back in the bays. There are quite a few humps and deep holes lurking deep in these bays. I can honestly say that I have caught many fish by using the depth shading.

For more information go to your manufactures web site and read as much as possible. Some of the models have update that you can download on a SD/MMC card and insert it in you GPS/Depth finder.

Some of the pictures above are my own and I also would like to thank Humminbird for allowing me use of some of their pictures.

I do hope the information above helps you understand how Depth finders and GPS work and how you can make them work for you. 
 
Editor's Note:  Chris Kuntz is an FLW Angler from Mandan, ND.  As an FBO Pro Team member we appreciate his efforts in supplying tips and tactics for walleye fishing.  Not to mention, his volunteer hours to organizations such as Sporting Chance.