Strikemaster auger help

Sounds to me like it needs the carb set. or maybe a carb cleaning and setting.  cold blooded means lean most of the time. the bit spinning is the idle is too high but a lean condition can cause this. if you know where the low speed jet is( 2 set screws on the side of the carb low speed is countersunk) some carbs dont have setable jets. i would warm up the engine and richen the screw (out ). your best bet is have the carb cleaned with a new needle and seat and diaphram.

 

This is from a gentleman from another site. I used the info and it fixed my jiffy right up. I was expreincing the same issues as you. Don't know if it will help you're Strikmaster, but here it is......

CLEAN CARB!!! Been there done that!

Yeah just give her a good bath or take it to someone to have it done.  You changed spark plugs lately?  Should ask that first.  Maybe that's all you need?

if it worked before just fine and you haven't messed with any screws, it just needs a cleaning.  plugs wouldn't cause the issues you are talking about.  and the carb settings shouldn't change on their own.  something is gummed up and sticking.  take it apart.  clean it.  put it back together.  should be fine as long as you can get it put back together. 

Where can you buy Carb parts ?

the garden hut in grnad forks stocks alot of auger parts and are great guys . i ordered a plug and carb kit last week came the next day in the mail.

It is going to get interesting with the Tecumseh motors and parts since they ceased as a business.  Somebody continuing the manufacturing of parts for them?

clean it up, replace throttle spring and have them check the diaphragm. 

Get it to operating temp. Take the air filter off and start it again. Spray liberal amounts of deep creep in the carb. Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes. Restart and it will most likely be good as new. Tune-up in a can!

MuskyManiac Said:
Get it to operating temp. Take the air filter off and start it again. Spray liberal amounts of deep creep in the carb. Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes. Restart and it will most likely be good as new. Tune-up in a can!

Snowblowers,ice augers do not have air filters!!!!!!! Most rough running is caused by crud in the vortex ports on an auger. Sea Foam or even blasting in carb cleaner will clear it. But a lot of carb cleaners are going to cause down the road probelms with diaghram systems as they will cause the rubber to deteroate. I do not recommend using a non rubber safe carb cleaner in small engines for this reason. Fix the problem today but create a bigger problem down the road!!!!!

Sea Foam or marine Stabil helps fight the detroration of rubber from the fuel blends most of us are forced to run today. Even non ethanol fuel blends today will damage rubber when it ages. I use to advocate storing small engines with fuel in them. Today I recommend they be drained and run dry for storage.

So for a motor that is running, but not perfect, many times simply moving of the fuel jets will  eliminate the crud build up. A friend brought me his grandfathers 15 year old Jiffy Mod 30 last week. His grandfather had not used the auger in about 4 years. But he had drained all the gas and ran it dry before putting it away. They where able to start it and  get it to cut with it at half choke! I had tuned this for his grandfather in the past 8 or more years. Fresh plug, and simply moving the jet cleared up the issues. Report from Devils Lake yesterday was it drilled 100+ holes with no hic ups. Ran up to speed, govenor kicked in under load etc.........


The moral is that the carb did not need rebuilding at all. Sea Foam,synthetic 2 cycke oil and the more it was used the better it ran!!!!!

Funny, my Strikemaster has a small foam filter attached to the side of the gas tank underneath a black plastic grill.  This is the air intake for the carb, so I guess I would consider it an air filter!!!!!!

Deep Creep is made by Seafoam, and is made for this purpose, so I don't think there's any problems with what I said as they are also the instructions on the can.

Proper storage of equipment will prevent a majority of these cases in the first place, but I've used this technique on my own as well as numerous friends augers/generators, ect. and have found in a most cases we don't have to pull the carb apart.

Thanks for playing, though.