Gun Repair: removing glue from wood

try a little heat from a heat gun

 Take a damp rag and put over the glue. Then use an iron ( set on high) and hold the iron on the rag until you see steam. You may have to do it a couple of times but this should release the clue with out damaging the wood.

The thing with the iron sounds like a smart way of approaching it. Have you or anyone you know tried this before?

I'd like to find a method that utilizes a solvent of some sort. In addition to the dilemma of removing the poorly attached wood, there's glue smeared all over the forend and barrel. I honestly think the guy repaired it while intoxicated or in the dark. I suppose I can just gently sand off all of the excess glue as I intend to refinish the wood anyhow.

I really don't want to screw this up. This could be an heirloom if I can salvage it.

What is it? Might be easier to replace.

The problem with a heat gun is that the glue will most likely require too much heat and result in discoloration of the stock itself long before the glue gives way.  Acetone will remove many of the super type glues, but the problem is getting penetration into the crack where the glue is.

depending on what the 'piece' looks like, and how much work you want to put into the project you could sand the area, which hopefully is running with the grain, smooth and flush, save all the wood dust from the sanding.  Then carefully use a 1/8 or smaller ball tip for a router/dremel and outline around the glued in piece.  Make a putty by mixing the saved dust and fill in the route... mix stain to darken, and then sand/finish

you can also extend the route and create 'fake' grain areas on the stock so that the one spot isn't glaringly obvious.

Its hard to describe, but I have used this technique in the past to blend in areas when repairing a damaged/broken stock.

The steam iron method works great for raising small dents and dings, dont know about glue.

Thanks for the tips guys. Got your PM dewaltcarp. That was especially helpful. I'll be PMing you with some more questions when I have the time.

The gun is a Browning Citori. Serial number indicates it was made in 1986. I figure its a Grade I. I could replace the forend for less than $100 but I'd like to leave it all original so the numbers match.

Picked it up for $450 and its been checked out by a gunsmith. I've never seen a Citori for less than $800, but its not like I've been looking. While I certainly appreciate fine craftsmanship, I've never been attracted to a gun I'd have to babysit. I'd kinda like to have this one to pass down to my kids.