Finishing Out My Attached Garage...Ideas?

Been starting the research process on finishing out my garage.  It is an older house and want to get my storage done in the garage.  Before I do that, I need to finish out the walls and ceiling nice.  Right now have 1/2 OSB up throughout by previous owner (I helped hang it actually).

Anyway, OSB is the devil when it comes to collecting dust so I have no interest in painting it.  Plus, painting is no fun for upkeep anyway even is you do buy a high grade paint that can be washed heavily.

So, been looking at other options.  Nine foot ceiling so was looking at maybe hanging a 1/8 or 1/4 wall paneling material up that can handle pressure washing and a beating and putting a foot kickboard at the floor.  My concern is mounting that material.  Nailing or screwing will look bad.  Industrial type adhesives would work but am concern about that failing in the future (time and temperature changes are mean on things).

Plus, I think having a system in place to allow easy access to the guts (the frame) for additional wiring or plumbing would be nice.

Was thinking that would maybe use dura-panel or equivalent.  Easy maintenance, will handle getting beat on and puts a pretty decent "finished" look to the garage.  Plus, if needed to get back behind walls wouldn't be a horrible adventure.  Also like the composite gradeboard idea for down at the floor but imagine the darn composite is spendy!  Haven't looked into durapanel costs either though...gonna do that later.  Just wanted some creative juices flowing.

Thoughts on that you garage gurus?  My garage is small being only a 24 x 22 (I think...can't remember exact measurements I made.  Might be a tad bigger than that.  Have to remeasure in the coming days.  Want to get this done before the snow flies and hunting seasons really kick in.  My organization stinks right now and looks like a redneck garage!

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i dont know if this would work for you or how much it would cost but i was at a house party a while back and it looked like they had put tin roofing on all the walls in there garage looked pretty nice and would be easy to wash off.

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Sounds like dura-panel.  If normal steel siding it would be expensive.  Dura-panel is a more affordable option.  They also have aqustic type dura-panel that is suppose to help with noise but being only 9 foot walls I don't think I will have too much noice.  At least not enough to warrant spending extra money.


 

 

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Pretty sure I would never want to pressure wash a garage wall.  Last thing you need is to force moisture in behind the panels (regardless of what you chose) and let mold grow.  Not to mention the electrical outlets!

So you don't think painted OSB is the look you want and would like to get something else to overlay it?  Seems like a lot of extra expense to me. 

I've been hemming and hawwing between OSB and sheetrock to finish my garage.  i like the ability of OSB to hold fasteners, don't really like the look.  Also much prefer the fire retardance of sheet rock over OSB.  So I still haven't made up my mind.  Having to depend on rural fire dept speed for a garage fire has me leaning toward sheetrock.

Uggh!  More taping and texturing....

“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.” ~ Mark Twain

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Tim, I can tell you what I've had so far and how well it's worked. At our old place the inside of the garage was unfinshed sheet rock with no tape, mud or texture. Well, over time it yellowed, looked dingy and wasn't partiularly appealing. It was something I would have everntually atleast painted had we stayed there.
 
The shop had white ribbed steel on the ceiling and walls. I like this as it made shop look great from an appearance standpoint and I figured it would be easy to pressure wash. Well, I learned that years of tractor & vehicle exhast and general shop use put a grime on the tin that couldn't hardly be washed off. I tryed the pressure washer and it only knocked of the chunks and spider webs, soap and water helped but smeared the grime around and actually made it look worse as did a solavent cleaner, WD-40, and gasoline. To this day I really don't know if anything would have cleaned it up. I did really like the way it finished off the shop. The downside came to hanging stuff on the walls be it cabinets or whatever, the ribs made things difficult and I was constantly fighting it.
 
I don't have a shop built at the new place yet but the 36x34 attached garage is completely finished with lots of lights, lots of power (Five 220 outlets), cabinets, tool hangers and so on. The walls are simply finished sheetrock that has been taped, mudded,  textured, and painted white. So far I have found it looks nice, it's easy to hang stuff up, I can wipe off most things with a wet cloth and what I cann't can be touched up in a few minutes with a quick coat of paint which I have had to do already. The downside is it isn't water/pressure washer friendly and if you want to keep it looking nice you'll be doing some painting atleast once a year. The other downside is the mud and tape lines will crack if it isn't temp controled.

The only other Idea that I've seen and may try someday is to sheetrock and finsh the walls and ceiling as you normaly would and then take a plastic/melamine type of sheeting and finish the bottom 4 feet with that.  the idea being something that you can pressure wash and clean. Melamine probably isn't the exact product I'm thinking of but the proper name escapes me at the moment.

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Hang that plastic paneling like you see in wash bays or bathrooms. It comes in white so there's no paint involved.

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Sheetrock is common hence why I think it is safe to point out the drawbacks.

1.  A real pain in the butt to maintain.  Even with "wash friendly" paint.

2.  A real pain in the butt because it is fragile.  Yet to see a garage that doesn't have a hole at the base or somewhere else.

3.  I am not good enough to tape and texture.  A guy thinks he is and then five years down the road here comes the ugliness.

4.  A pain to deal with putting in storage and other things that need wall fastening.  Not to mention a change in design will require patch work or the old fashion "ah the hole doesn't look too bad I'll just let it be..."

5.  If you need to get behind to fix something or add in plumbing or whatever...good luck.  A redo is in the make for the whole garage unless not minding discolored paint or inconsistent texturing.

6.  A double vote for a pain in the butt to maintain.

As for the pressure wash comment I wouldn't be blasting with full power.  And my goodness I hope paneling keeps moisture out because there sure area  lot of buildings out there in the real world that got over 20 inches of rain dumped on them and at times in downpours and 60 plus mph winds! 

I wouldn't fear a light pressure or hose washing followed by a broom or other cleaning tool on paneling.  Not one bit.  But I get your point.  I should have worded differently.

And no, I do not like the look of OSB at all.  You throw paint over it and you have nothing but a dust trap.  It will be disgusting to look at and deal with.  I'd feel dirty every time I cut up a deer or cleaned a walleye with the amount of dust that would be sitting in the OSBnookss and crannies.  Without it painted one doesn't even realize how dirty it is but if you throw white paint up you'll see dust galore. 

A suggestion was to lightly mud and sand over the OSB but that sounds like a disaster down the road for breakdown.

Dura-panel is 74 bucks per 100 square feet.  I'll let you know what my quote is on dura-panel.  I just did a real rough estimate and figure a 1,000 bill but that doesn't include the trim, screws and other goodies.  So I put in a quote request to see what the heck it all entails.  I know a 1,000 bucks is a bit of money but by the time you add up sheetrock, paint, tape and texture I guess I don't know how terrible the cost difference is?  Not to mention then you have the rest of your life wondering why you didn't do amaintenancee free approach versus something that needs tender loving care.

Again, I am not a tape and texture guy.  That requires extensiveexperiencee and skill.  It is the last thing you do before painting so it is one of the most important.  If not done well, it will be a eye sore for the rest of the garages life.  To get someone to come in mud and texture I'm sure is no less than 600 bucks now a days.  Probably closer to a $1,000 or more.

I can utilize my whole life policy and pay back myself interest.  Hell, I'll be making money by finishing my garage! 


 

 

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Yar,

Was your sheet metal painted or not painted?  I think that makes a big difference with how it cleans.

I get your point but I'm not to concerned with the exhaust.  It is a heated garage and vehicles will not need to be ran inside.  Jumping in a 40 degree vehicle takes very little time to warm up in the winter.

Outside of that, being an attached garage I will not run anything inside other than tuning up an ice auger, the mower or whatever.  So I'm not fearing that.  The biggest issue will be splashing of water from floor, who knows what getting splattered on the walls and dust.  Dust is by far the number one enemy followed fairly closely by rain and snow getting splattered around.

Hanging stuff will be easy for me because I will NOT have anything other than cabinets and tote storage.  Utilizing the neat track systems they have today will be very easy to hang cabinets.  Or simply paint up some boards or even stain and varnish that act as supports or hang rails.  My main storage will be utilizing notched shelving trips with heavy duty brackets which will be holding up meshed shelving.  That way dust can filter through the shelving.  All my stuff will be stored in totes with labeling so no lazy man placing of whatever.  Everything is free from dust, organized and not an eye sore.  Or so that's the plan.

As upland said there is the other products out there that are similar to bathroom paneling.  It is textured or light textured.  It is kind of like a heavy duty vinyl but that goes back to my worry of temp control, humidity control and heaving of the OSB.  That paneling has the potential to detach.  Plus, the seams will have to be dealt with.  I already have decided I will not use the seam snaps.  If I went with this approach I would simply separate the two panels and then fill in with a water based caulking.  Those seam snaps are the first thing to yellow and go to heck.

But I have looked into that option.  Tis not overlooked yet but I am really leaning toward the dura-panel.  I am too broke to ever own a nice big place with a detached extra garage.  At least in Minot for the next twenty years so I might as well make my little detach feel like the shop I dream of........
 


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
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I have been researching the same stuff.
I have decided to go with regular barn tin that we put on five different buildings out at the farm.  Granted its ribbed but i will just cut in a 2X6 where i want to mount cabinets because I shouldn't need washing up there.
There are products that keep moisture out with it and the colors are durable enough to wash.

A previous garage had the bottom 4' marlite and the top 5' was finished sheetrock with no texture, just smooth with no bumps to collect dust. That probably looked nicer but was a pain to maintain.

good thread.

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The shop we use runs alot of small motors, large diesel forklifts, and a fair amount of welding.  Every 3-4 years we spray on a degreaser, hit it with a brush and powerwash it off.  After it is dry, we use some  cleaner for alum wheels, from NAPA, by the 5 gallon bucket.   Use a hand pump sprayer, spray it on and hose it off.  Amazing how it looks.   Need ventilation, as it will take your breath away.

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huntrut Said:

I have been researching the same stuff.
I have decided to go with regular barn tin that we put on five different buildings out at the farm.  Granted its ribbed but i will just cut in a 2X6 where i want to mount cabinets because I shouldn't need washing up there.
There are products that keep moisture out with it and the colors are durable enough to wash.

A previous garage had the bottom 4' marlite and the top 5' was finished sheetrock with no texture, just smooth with no bumps to collect dust. That probably looked nicer but was a pain to maintain.

good thread.

That was a similar idea but over time sheetrock just starts to look crappy.  I don't know, decisions to be made.


 

 

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Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
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roll on bed liner somthing like rhino lining but cheaper brand. just get a six pack and roll away


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Tim Sandstrom Said:

Again, I am not a tape and texture guy.  That requires extensiveexperiencee and skill.  It is the last thing you do before painting so it is one of the most important.  If not done well, it will be a eye sore for the rest of the garages life.  To get someone to come in mud and texture I'm sure is no less than 600 bucks now a days.  Probably closer to a $1,000 or more.

 

It's really not that hard and if you are spraying texture, your main mud lines dont need alot of "perfection" Probably a bit easier than you think, if I were closer and this was what you decided to do I would help you out. I find texturing messy fun! I know, I'm weird!

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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I am in the samne boat, I think I am leaning towards the OSB painted. I know I will accidentally poke holes in the drywall one way or another, firewood ect. With the price of roll in insulation, I will blow in insulation for the cost savings, buy enough bails and Lowes gives you the machine for free and a monkey can do it, my son did the attic in the house and he was 14 at the time (dont judge me, he could fit through the vent outside). Proably go finished dry wall on the ceiling. Garage is also heated by a forced air oil furnance so running vehicles wont be an issue.

My biggest issue right now is how I am going to layout all my storage issues I have.

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Tim,
My neighbor actually used painted tin on the ceiling with another 1.5 inches of insulation sheeting under it and used wood paneling on the sides. It looks awsome and he said it retains heat very very well with blown insulation in the crawl space.

Lots of options though...

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I've seen some wood paneled garages and they do look nice.  Darkens em up a little though.  Not sure what colors I will do.  Kinda thinking a light colored grey would be nice.  White just shows everything.  Maybe light colored ceiling and white walls.  Not sure, garage probably too small to get away with that and looking decent.  Might just go all white and decorate with different colored totes and cabinents or whatever.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
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Tim Sandstrom Said:
Might just go all white and decorate with different colored totes and cabinents or whatever.

Dude, real mean dont use the word "Decorate" when talking about a garage aka man cave ect!!!! LOL J/K

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Did someone actually use "decorate" in the same sentence as "garage"? 

Quick question on the blown in insulation.  How does a person do a vapor barrier if all you have to access is a vent or something you are using to blow in the insulation?

“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.” ~ Mark Twain

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Dangit, Walynut types faster....

“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.” ~ Mark Twain

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walynut Said:

Tim Sandstrom Said:
Might just go all white and decorate with different colored totes and cabinents or whatever.

Dude, real mean dont use the word "Decorate" when talking about a garage aka man cave ect!!!! LOL J/K

In my opinion hanging a cabela's banner up is decorating.


 

 

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Tim Sandstrom Said:

In my opinion hanging a cabela's banner up is decorating.

Maybe, but if you value your possession of a man card, you would use the word "display".

“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.” ~ Mark Twain

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walynut Said:

Tim Sandstrom Said:
Might just go all white and decorate with different colored totes and cabinents or whatever.

Dude, real mean dont use the word "Decorate" when talking about a garage aka man cave ect!!!! LOL J/K

Exactly.


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Allen Said:
Did someone actually use "decorate" in the same sentence as "garage"? 

Quick question on the blown in insulation.  How does a person do a vapor barrier if all you have to access is a vent or something you are using to blow in the insulation?

This was a top off in the attic there was already insulation in there. We went to central heat and the ducts had to be covered and the easiest was was to blow it since it was a VERY small area to work in.

There is some good debate in regards to vapor barriers when used in attic, alot belive not to use one in our colder climate so moisture can seep through the ceiling AS LONG AS the attic has proper ventalation. My current house does not have a vapor barrier in the attic and I have no signs of moisture damage in the 50 yr old house.

As for new walls, run plastic over studs, blow in insulation, install dry wall. Existing walls, while insulation can easily be blown into pre-existing walls, there is no good way to install a vapor barrier without removing the drywall. Removing the drywall and installing a new vapor barrier may be your only recourse if moisture is a problem.

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Allen Said:

Tim Sandstrom Said:

In my opinion hanging a cabela's banner up is decorating.

Maybe, but if you value your possession of a man card, you would use the word "display".

LMAO!!!!!!!

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Have a detached double garge,The person who owned before me put in new wiring in it.He put electric plug ends in the middle of the ceiling,just a thought

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Right now there is a rebate for installing insulation in you home/garage from your power company giving through the federal government of $400. Not sure if just doing your garage qualifies you for it however a phone call takes 1 minute.
I had it done to my home one month ago, and after the rebate, and tax credit it cost me $0.37/square ft

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I used the wood siding/paneling you buy at Menards that is hanging up on the walls by the "special order" building section.  I used the flat, textured stuff on the ceiling and the paneling designed stuff on the walls.  Isn't cheap at about $18 to $20 per 4x8 sheet, but also didn't want to use sheetrock, have to mud/tape/texture, etc.  It has OSB on the back so its treated.  The front is primed already and has the paneling look you could either run vertical or horizontal.  Used a smaller head trim screw to screw them to the frame.  Yeah, you can see the screw heads, but it isn't that bad.  Only other downfall is you have a permanent screw hole in it if  you screw anything to the walls, but figured its easily covered up with a little wood putty.  The primed color was a tan-ish, so I haven't even painted over it.  I think it looks nice and is functional.  Also figured it was nice if water is ever splashed on the walls since its treated.  Again, probably 2 or 3 times the cost of sheetrock, but much more durable and IMO looks nicer. 

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Not to completely hijack this thread as it does have something to do with a garage. Say a guy has a detached, insulated, finished 40x28 garage/shop with 9' ceilings that isn't heated. (By the way it's sheetrocked, textured, and painted. I wouldn't have it any other way.) What would be the best option to heat it?
It is wired for electricity, but doesn't run off of a seperate meter. Should a guy spend the $$ and have the natural gas ran to it and put a gas heater or get some sort of electric, or I guess a guy could do propane.

The kill is the satisfying, indeed essential, conclusion to a successful hunt. But, I take no pleasure in the act itself. One does not hunt in order to kill, but kills in order to have hunted. Then why do I hunt? I hunt for the same reason my well-fed cat hunts...because I must, because it is in the blood, because I am the decendent of a thousand generations of hunters. I hunt because I am a hunter.- Finn Aagard

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That's the thing though, is it really that much more spendy than sheetrock?  Buying, hanging and doing all the mud, texture and painting yourself...maybe.  But that depends if you are a true economist and factor in opportunity cost.  If a guy makes 30 bucks and hour you take that into consideration and not so much!

What's a garage cost now a days?  I had my living room ceiling and a couple remodeled walls done and cost me around 600 bucks and was considered a deal.  A garage and the whole shebang gotta be more ain't it?


 

 

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Fox Island Outfitter Said:
Not to completely hijack this thread as it does have something to do with a garage. Say a guy has a detached, insulated, finished 40x28 garage/shop with 9' ceilings that isn't heated. (By the way it's sheetrocked, textured, and painted. I wouldn't have it any other way.) What would be the best option to heat it?
It is wired for electricity, but doesn't run off of a seperate meter. Should a guy spend the $$ and have the natural gas ran to it and put a gas heater or get some sort of electric, or I guess a guy could do propane.

I would say depends, how hot do you want to get it in the middle of winter? Just to keep it at 40 or so you could very easily achieve this with electric, wanna be at 70 while you are out there working, need to look at a fuel of some sort.

Talk with any local heating/AC place for a "used" system that was pulled from another job, dont need to be super effecient and will save you big bucks.

I chose to go with a fuel oil system, convereted a 25 gallon barrel into a holding tank, put it outside with a heat tape on the line and ran it into garage. Hooked up electric to the fan and wolla, 70 degrees in the middle of winter for about 5 bills.

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Don't forget to add a ceiling fan to blow warm air down in the winter.  I did

 

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Nicest garage I  ever seen was birch plwood with a 4 foot wainscoat of diamond plate alumnium.  Looked very nice, and sure it was plenty spendy.. Also have seen them lined with old carsiding, but osb is very popular for the most part, painted with a good paint to seal it.  Plus osb is good for 7 wet cycles if I remember right.  Or go for a little more mone and use an AC plywood with an epoxy paint.

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Tim Sandstrom Said:
That's the thing though, is it really that much more spendy than sheetrock?  Buying, hanging and doing all the mud, texture and painting yourself...maybe.  But that depends if you are a true economist and factor in opportunity cost.  If a guy makes 30 bucks and hour you take that into consideration and not so much!

What's a garage cost now a days?  I had my living room ceiling and a couple remodeled walls done and cost me around 600 bucks and was considered a deal.  A garage and the whole shebang gotta be more ain't it?

When I finished my basement I asked the guy whatd itd cost to do my standard 3 stall attached he quoted me around 1400........hence why its not done.

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Light paneling will tend to warp in due time with ND humidity, unless you nail the sh$t out of it. Tape and texture, tends to crack.in warm/cold situations. Wainscoat or carsiding would be the ticket and "very" nice looking. I agree with pressure washing walls in a garage , not a good plan. Doesn't take much to get mold started.

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what about "slatt board"  te stuff with large grooves cut horizontaly and can have shelving and hooks mounted with brackets, the screws could be hidden in the slatts and would be a bright white reflective surface.

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moose,

Slatwall is kinda intriguing but I think is very spendy.  I started doing some checking around like at Garage Works and places.  Think they are over priced so will check further.  Definitely an option though.  Only concern is all that room for dust in the tracks.  Plus, clean up might not be quite as easy.  Gotta look into that more.


 

 

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I'm building a 30x40 attached garage right now and have the same questions...I think OSB and some good paint should do the trick....what is the cost difference between blow in insulation and the rolls? Haven't got that far in my research yet.

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Fox Island Outfitter Said:
Not to completely hijack this thread as it does have something to do with a garage. Say a guy has a detached, insulated, finished 40x28 garage/shop with 9' ceilings that isn't heated. (By the way it's sheetrocked, textured, and painted. I wouldn't have it any other way.) What would be the best option to heat it?
It is wired for electricity, but doesn't run off of a seperate meter. Should a guy spend the $$ and have the natural gas ran to it and put a gas heater or get some sort of electric, or I guess a guy could do propane.

I've seen the tube style radiant heaters in action and think that would be the way to go.  Propane is easy to install as long as you don't mind the tank.  These heaters actually heat the items in the shop and then the heat convects to the air so opening the door in winter is only a short set back.  Snow melts and evaporates nicely then as well.

http://teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/cat1;ts_heaters_accessories;ts_...

I will be doing this in my shop.  It has 12' side walls and is 40'x32'.  If you look at a greenhouse supply website you can get thermostats that work to keep an area above freezing.  My plan is to bring the heat up to working levels using a coal stove and or torpedo heater.

Yeah, it's kind of like that.

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HNTDUX Said:
I'm building a 30x40 attached garage right now and have the same questions...I think OSB and some good paint should do the trick....what is the cost difference between blow in insulation and the rolls? Haven't got that far in my research yet.

I cant break it down for you off the top of my head but when I did the attic again, the blow in insulation, which was 85% recyled material, was significantly cheaper than a kraft batted insulation ($9.29 per bail). R value, depending on how thick you put it varies from a R-13 to an R-60 Also, depending on how many bailes you buy from Lowes, belive it was ten, they give you the machine for free instead of renting it for a day.

Here is what I used.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_82480-2256-INS541LD_4294858108_4294937087_?cm_cr=Insulation-_-Web+Activity-_-Insulation+Top+Flexible-_-SC_Insulation++Accessories_TopFlexible_Area-_-192108_5_&catalogId=10051&productId=3227256&Ne=4294937087&N=4294858108&identifier=Loose+Fill+Insulation&langId=-1&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&searchQueryType=1

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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Kind of intriguing stuff.  Especially with 4x9 sheets.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_siding_hardiepanelSiding.py

Have to head down to the local lumber shop and take a peek.  Problem is, I imagine they are busy and probably out of stock.


 

 

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walynut Said:

HNTDUX Said:
I'm building a 30x40 attached garage right now and have the same questions...I think OSB and some good paint should do the trick....what is the cost difference between blow in insulation and the rolls? Haven't got that far in my research yet.

I cant break it down for you off the top of my head but when I did the attic again, the blow in insulation, which was 85% recyled material, was significantly cheaper than a kraft batted insulation ($9.29 per bail). R value, depending on how thick you put it varies from a R-13 to an R-60 Also, depending on how many bailes you buy from Lowes, belive it was ten, they give you the machine for free instead of renting it for a day.

Here is what I used.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_82480-2256-INS541LD_4294858108_4294937087_?cm_cr=Insulation-_-Web+Activity-_-Insulation+Top+Flexible-_-SC_Insulation++Accessories_TopFlexible_Area-_-192108_5_&catalogId=10051&productId=3227256&Ne=4294937087&N=4294858108&identifier=Loose+Fill+Insulation&langId=-1&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&searchQueryType=1

Is this the sticky material that bonds to studwalls or would I have to buy the rolls for the walls? Also we do not have a Lowes in Minot, I wonder if Menards or any other place rents this unit.

LIFE...It's nature's way of keeping meat fresh!

If you want to sound wise, go to school. If you want to be wise....go to Nature!

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walynut
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HNTDUX Said:

walynut Said:

HNTDUX Said:
I'm building a 30x40 attached garage right now and have the same questions...I think OSB and some good paint should do the trick....what is the cost difference between blow in insulation and the rolls? Haven't got that far in my research yet.

I cant break it down for you off the top of my head but when I did the attic again, the blow in insulation, which was 85% recyled material, was significantly cheaper than a kraft batted insulation ($9.29 per bail). R value, depending on how thick you put it varies from a R-13 to an R-60 Also, depending on how many bailes you buy from Lowes, belive it was ten, they give you the machine for free instead of renting it for a day.

Here is what I used.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_82480-2256-INS541LD_4294858108_4294937087_?cm_cr=Insulation-_-Web+Activity-_-Insulation+Top+Flexible-_-SC_Insulation++Accessories_TopFlexible_Area-_-192108_5_&catalogId=10051&productId=3227256&Ne=4294937087&N=4294858108&identifier=Loose+Fill+Insulation&langId=-1&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&storeId=10151&searchQueryType=1

Is this the sticky material that bonds to studwalls or would I have to buy the rolls for the walls? Also we do not have a Lowes in Minot, I wonder if Menards or any other place rents this unit.

For walls, you staple up plastic over the studs but leave about a 4" opening at the top of the wall. The plastic holds the insulation in and acks as a vapor barrier. When done filling them up, sheet rock or OSB and your done.

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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HNTDUX,

It would look like this when your done before you put up the interior sheeting.  This project they used a netting type material but same principal as using plastic sheeting.

 

Good Luck and Good Fishin'

Eric T

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walynut Said:
HNTDUX,

It would look like this when your done before you put up the interior sheeting.  This project they used a netting type material but same principal as using plastic sheeting.

Very good, I will check into this method. Thank you very much for your info.

LIFE...It's nature's way of keeping meat fresh!

If you want to sound wise, go to school. If you want to be wise....go to Nature!

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just did a detached garage that had has the pole barn siding w/o exterior sheeting.  all of the purlins made it difficult to seal right w/o your typical building wrap and interior batt or blow in insulation.  i ordered this kit and was reasonable impressed w/ its ease of use and cost.  tis a little expensive.  but, a good product and cost about 60% of what it costs to have someone else come do it for you.  saved myself $900 for 3.5 hours of work.  might not be the most economical choice for someone w/ regular wall that are already sealed with tyvek.  looks like the price has gone up by $100 in the last 2 months tho.

https://www.sprayfoamdirect.com/products/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,30/category_id,6/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,1/

Born to hunt and fish... Forced to work!

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 A wet bar and a removable stripper pole are sure to be a hit with your friends.

                                                                                                                         

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Think I am sold on finshing with dura-panel.  I just see it being very easy.  One wall by house is sheetrocked (think that is code right...or something).  Probably just tape that out and paint as necessary.  Will help with sound deading as well.  Or maybe panel out with tongue and groove type pine or something.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/158876/tp/1/


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com