Caulking Driveway Cracks

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jsthntn's picture
jsthntn
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Caulking Driveway Cracks

I'm throwing around the idea of doing the expansion joints.

I'm sick of weeds, dirt/debris, and chipping corners. The concrete is 9 years old, and has no cracks besides the expansion joints.

Does this stuff hold up? I cant find anyone in my neighborhood who has done it!

pros, cons

thanks!

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I was thinking about doing my driveway also, I have some really wide gaps on mine and some pieces were really heaving this spring, I think they got water under and then it froze, its back to normal now, but for a while they were really wacky...

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 I want to know the same thing.  I house I bought a few years ago has a pretty steep driveway and the expansion cracks have grown quite wide.  The previous owner filled it in with black stuff, perhaps blacktop sealer, but it looks weird with the black on grey concrete.  Should I use a foam backer and then just use cement caulking?

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 i wish an expert would chime in! google basically only confused me more 

im thinking there are only pros and no cons? BUT i cant find anyone in my hood who has done it?!?!!?

so i'm really wondering whats up up 

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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I worked for a caulking company for a year and a half, and we did alot of driveways. it will def. stick you just have to make sure you have it very clean.  I would say if it's more than an inch thick i would use some backerrod or else you will go through a ton of caulking.

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DOW CORNING 890-SL SILICONE JOINT SEALANT
A one-part, cold-applied, easy-to-use, self-leveling silicon material that cures to an ultra-low-modulus silicone rubber upon exposure to atmospheric moisture. The cured silicone rubber remains flexible over the entire temperature range expected in pavement applications.

All information above came from the following web site;

https://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/Details.aspx?prod=02011727&type=PROD

There are other similar products that work well. This is one of many that is used in an industrial/commercial fasion for roadways, bridges and so forth. Should be good for driveways!

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You will want to router out the cracks so they are even, and blow them out with compressed air so they are clean.  You should use backer rod.  You want the sealant to stick to the concrete (sides), and only have to expand and contract in one direction.  If you don't use backer road it might stick to the bottom of the crack and have to expand in that direction also, tearing the sealant loose from the concrete.  If the crack isn't clean you won't have good adhesion to the concrete, basically like painting over dirt.  Use a commercial product like Tremco also.  As far as holding up that's going to depend on how bad you beat it up with your snow blower in the winter.


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some good replies! thanks

any recommendations in the BisMan area?

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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Call Prairie Supply in bismark and talk to Mike J. he will hook you up with some good caulking that is who we bought it from. He should also have any tools if you need to rent them.
 

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I have tried about 20 kinds of driveway caulk filler stuff.

 
Basically, you want a polyeurethane one...and if the cracks aren't too deep and not angled too much, you want the self leveling kind.
 
Here is a good one:

http://www.midlandhardware.com/148021.html

You can get it at any decent hardware store, or menards or home depot.

There is one that starts with a letter S at home depot also...lol. 

 
The polyeurethane stuff..stays like RUBBER no matter how cold or how hot it gets out. 
 
In the winter,  at 20 below...it is still rubbery.  It doesn't come out because of freeze-thaw.  The crap that comes in jugs...is junk. 

The only bad thing about the polyurethane stuff is that
a.) turns black from tires
b.) Your shovel will catch on it in the winter....won't harm it, but it'll about snap your elbow off if you have a metal shovel and are shoveling fast and furioiusly, and your shovel catches it. 

 
Good stuff.

If you were a badminton ace, I think this would be a good bumper sticker:  "Suck my Shuttlecock" 

 

 

 

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I have replaced sidewalk dividers that were redwood 2x4's that eventually rotted out on the bottom edge and came loose.  This left me with a 1-1/2" wide by about 3" deep space between sidewalk sections.  I made up brick/block mortar mix and filled the space with that.  The lime in the mortar mix took care of expansion/cracking problems and the color is close to regular concrete.  I never tried it in narrow cracks, but it should work just like it does between bricks.  Look for "Portland cement mortar" wherever cement products are sold.

Steve.

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 I've been doing flatwork for 6 years now and I would recommend a product called Sikaflex depending on the size of the cracks..  It's a lot like the products some of these other guys have described.   It stays rubbery and durable.   http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/ContentView?pn=BP_Sika&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

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Used to to things like that for a living

 

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 Sikaflex looks like the Shizuoka 

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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Boom... that's the stuff I was trying to think of in my post above. From what I can tell... its just like the Loctite  stuff I mentioned. Keep in mind... there is self leveling and thicker stuff... just make sure you get polyurethane ... whatever u choose.  

The Mantis Said:
 I've been doing flatwork for 6 years now and I would recommend a product called Sikaflex depending on the size of the cracks..  It's a lot like the products some of these other guys have described.   It stays rubbery and durable.   http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/ContentView?pn=BP_Sika&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

If you were a badminton ace, I think this would be a good bumper sticker:  "Suck my Shuttlecock" 

 

 

 

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10 years ago I put down something called NP1, from Northwest Industrial Supply in Bismarck, and I have been pretty happy with it.   Still pliable.  The only cracks that is has pulled away from are ones that shift too much in the winter.   They have another flavor of it called SL1 where SL stands for self-leveling.   I went with the thicker NP so that it didn't sink further than I wanted and then I smoothed it out myself.

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 sikaflex self leveling looks like a winner to me

what does 'cleaning' the joints properly entail? seems like when i spray em out with the hose, dirt just keeps a-bubblin up (thus coating the joints again with a layer of dirt?)

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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You guys are suckers.  The govt will fix your sidewalk while you lay on the couch.

http://youtu.be/sHzdsFiBbFc

 Nuke the Whales

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Sluggo Said:
10 years ago I put down something called NP1, from Northwest Industrial Supply in Bismarck, and I have been pretty happy with it.   Still pliable.  The only cracks that is has pulled away from are ones that shift too much in the winter.   They have another flavor of it called SL1 where SL stands for self-leveling.   I went with the thicker NP so that it didn't sink further than I wanted and then I smoothed it out myself.

We use np1 almost weekly.  Good stuff.  It also comes in a SSL semi self leveling for the steeper driveways. But like everyone said use backed rod.  Its pretty cheap

"They say that guns just cause violence, if thats true mine are all defective" Ted Nugent

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!thwack! Said:
 
Sluggo Said:
10 years ago I put down something called NP1, from Northwest Industrial Supply in Bismarck, and I have been pretty happy with it.   Still pliable.  The only cracks that is has pulled away from are ones that shift too much in the winter.   They have another flavor of it called SL1 where SL stands for self-leveling.   I went with the thicker NP so that it didn't sink further than I wanted and then I smoothed it out myself.

We use np1 almost weekly.  Good stuff.  It also comes in a SSL semi self leveling for the steeper driveways. But like everyone said use backed rod.  Its pretty cheap

so now im leaning towards np1 ssl! 

any insight into joint prep?

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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I used to own/run an asphalt sealcoating business in college and like others have stated, make sure your crack is really clean before you apply your sealer of choice.  If you could borrow/rent one of these it would be ideal:
http://littlewonder.com/lw-pro-crack-cleaner.asp
And then follow it up with a blower/air compressor of some sort.  Also, if your crack looks like it goes to China you will want some sort of backer as mentioned above.

"Diligence is the mother of good luck."

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All by:  Benjamin Franklin.

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Author: John Gierach

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NP 1 the best by far, can get it at Brock White in Bismarck

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VAGPOUNDER Said:
NP 1 the best by far, can get it at Brock White in Bismarck

Stay the heck away from that!

If you were a badminton ace, I think this would be a good bumper sticker:  "Suck my Shuttlecock" 

 

 

 

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WellArmed Said:

VAGPOUNDER Said:
NP 1 the best by far, can get it at Brock White in Bismarck

Stay the heck away from that!

for real? or cuz someone w that screen name recommended it........

i see 'stuff' around, both white and grey, that really seems to pull away from the edges

i basically want to avoid that!

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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jsthntn Said:
 

WellArmed Said:

VAGPOUNDER Said:
NP 1 the best by far, can get it at Brock White in Bismarck

Stay the heck away from that!

for real? or cuz someone w that screen name recommended it........

i see 'stuff' around, both white and grey, that really seems to pull away from the edges

i basically want to avoid that!

No...not for that reason. For the reason that he started a post on basically selling a product....the first day he registered a name.  So..you know what that looks like....like he registered just to sell/advertise. I could be wrong...it just looks suspicious.

 
 
Maybe it's an awesome product....
 

Just make sure you clean the crack decently...if you can...and use any of the recommended stuff that was recommended by a neutral party. ; )

If you were a badminton ace, I think this would be a good bumper sticker:  "Suck my Shuttlecock" 

 

 

 

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From my experience, the stuff in jugs called "Driveway Crack Filler", doesn't stretch much, it's chalky, gritty, and pulls apart and breaks easily, and certainly after a freeze thaw cycle.

 

I've used Sika, Loctite, and one other polyurethane one...and they all worked great...all stay rubbery....and don't pull out or crack. 
 
Hard stuff like vinyl cement, concrete patch, etc...all just break apart.
 

If you were a badminton ace, I think this would be a good bumper sticker:  "Suck my Shuttlecock" 

 

 

 

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thank u

looks like im back to Sika 

WellArmed Said:
From my experience, the stuff in jugs called "Driveway Crack Filler", doesn't stretch much, it's chalky, gritty, and pulls apart and breaks easily, and certainly after a freeze thaw cycle.

 

I've used Sika, Loctite, and one other polyurethane one...and they all worked great...all stay rubbery....and don't pull out or crack. 
 
Hard stuff like vinyl cement, concrete patch, etc...all just break apart.
 

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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I did mine two summers ago.  I consulted with our civil engineers at work and all they use is NP1.  It is top of the line.  You do not want self leveling as I have never seen a completely flat driveway.  And even if it is you want the top to have a "channel" as would be made by running your finger over it.  The backer rod provides that "channel" on the underside.  What this does is make sure when the NP1 expands the most expansion will occur in the middle where it is thinner.  This keeps the NP1 from pulling away from the concrete.  A screen door repair tool works well for installing the backer rod.  I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the concrete.  A pneuumatic or electric caulking gun will save you some hand pain and speed up the process.

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this is an information-filled reply, thank you!

soooo np1 may b the way to go. the channel effect makes sense 

J.B. Said:
I did mine two summers ago.  I consulted with our civil engineers at work and all they use is NP1.  It is top of the line.  You do not want self leveling as I have never seen a completely flat driveway.  And even if it is you want the top to have a "channel" as would be made by running your finger over it.  The backer rod provides that "channel" on the underside.  What this does is make sure when the NP1 expands the most expansion will occur in the middle where it is thinner.  This keeps the NP1 from pulling away from the concrete.  A screen door repair tool works well for installing the backer rod.  I used a wire wheel on a drill to clean the concrete.  A pneuumatic or electric caulking gun will save you some hand pain and speed up the process.

 "I'll show you where the bear sh**s in the woods!" ~ Dad
(I still have no clue what it means.)

"You're not really even my son." ~ Dad
(I still don't believe him.)

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Np1 the best do it when tubes get warm its nees bees.

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